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Bluebird Houses
Eastern Bluebird
House
Mountain Bluebird
House
Western Bluebird
House
Sparrow-resistant
Bluebird House
Observation
Bluebird House
Peterson Bluebird
House
Backyard Bird House |

 
During the last 60 years, bluebird
numbers have decreased 90 percent in the
eastern United States.
There are four reasons for the decline:
| * |
The widespread use
of insecticides decreases food
supplies. |
| * |
Severe winters
increase winter mortality. |
| * |
Changing
agricultural practices create
well-trimmed orchards with no
cavity trees for nest sites. |
| * |
House Sparrows competing for
remaining nest sites make nesting
even more difficult. |
Finding suitable nest sites
is perhaps the most severe problem the
bluebird faces today. Allowing trees to
mature and develop natural cavities takes
too long. A much quicker solution is to
provide man-made wooden bird houses. When
bluebird houses are placed in good areas,
bluebird populations increase rapidly.
Put bluebird houses up by the end of
February in areas around open fields,
pastures, golf courses, cemeteries,
gardens and large lawns which provide
excellent bluebird habitat. These areas
usually provide plenty of insects to eat.
Avoid areas where insecticides are used
heavily for two reasons:
| * |
Insects, a favorite
bluebird food, are reduced, and
the birds have trouble finding
enough to eat. |
| * |
The insects left are
usually covered with insecticide.
Bluebirds may be poisoned when
they eat these insects. |
Place houses 4 to 6 feet
above the ground and 50 to 100 yards
apart. Face the houses to the south or
southeast, if possible. Try to select
places where trees, shrubs, utility wires
or fences are within 25 to 100 feet of
the houses. Bluebirds use these
structures for perches when feeding.
These perches are also helpful to young
birds during their first flights.
If houses are located near woods and
brush piles, other species of birds, such
as chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, and
wrens, will use the bluebird houses.
These species, like the bluebird, are
welcome additions to the area and should
not be discouraged from using the bird
house. These birds are also helpful in
controlling insect populations. It may be
possible to get a bluebird to nest in the
same area by placing another house about
10 to 20 feet from the one the other bird
is using.
|
North
American Bluebird Society Approved
Coveside
Bird House Features

|
Eastern
Bluebird
Eastern Bluebirds are sexually dimorphic;
that is, males and females look quite
different. Males have bright blue heads,
tails, backs, and wings. The sides,
flanks, and throat are chestnut red.The
underparts are also chestnut red from the
chin down to the belly, but the belly is
white.
Although there is much variation in their
plumage, females are generally less
colorful than males. They have light
gray-blue heads, dull brown backs, and
blue tails and wings. There is a slight
white ring around the eye. In winter, the
female's upper breast turns a pale
reddish-brown.
Eastern Bluebirds can be found east of
the Rockies, throughout the eastern
United States and Canada, and down to
central Mexico. Some populations are
year-round residents, but others migrate
to more southerly latitudes for the
winter. Eastern Bluebirds are found in
suburban and rural habitats containing
sparse vegetation and scattered trees or
other perches. They typically nest in
fields, meadows, and orchards, avoiding
both densely wooded and congested
residential areas. Eastern Bluebirds
prefer open sunny habitats, such as
meadows, farm fields, lawns, and
pastures, with short vegetation.
Eastern Bluebird
Range Map
Eastern
Bluebirds eat a variety of invertebrates,
including caterpillars, butterflies,
moths, grasshoppers, katydids, and
spiders. They also feed on wild fruits.
Primarily ground feeders, they prefer
feeding and nesting in areas with short,
sparse vegetation, which affords a clear
view of ground-dwelling insects.
Eastern Bluebirds are monogamous. Pairs
generally stay together throughout the
breeding season, and pairs may breed
together for more than one season. Some
birds, however, may switch mates during a
breeding season to raise a second brood.
Both sexes defend territories; however,
the males tend to defend territory edges
while the females primarily defend the
nest site.
The breeding season begins anytime from
mid-March to early April. The male
initiates selecting the nest site by
"showing" the female several
possible sites. The female may begin to
build nests in several sites, but
eventually she decides on a site and
concentrates her efforts there. It
usually takes four to six days to build
the nest, but this varies with the time
of season, weather, and the age and
experience of the breeding pair. The
nests, which are built in woodpecker
holes, dead or rotting trees, and in nest
boxes, are composed mainly of dry
grasses, rootlets, and weed stems. Some
nests are built entirely of pine needles.
The cup is usually lined with fine
grasses, rarely with hair and fur. Males
may carry nest material to the nest, but
they do not participate in the actual
building of the nest. Rather, they spend
much time guarding their mates during
this time to prevent them from mating
with other males.
Eggs can be laid as early as late March
or as late as early June, depending upon
the weather and latitude. Females may
begin to lay eggs one or two days after
the nest is completed, but some females
wait a week or more. One egg is laid each
day, in the morning. The average clutch
has three to five eggs but as many as
seven have been reported. Clutch sizes
tend to be smaller for younger females
and for second broods of the breeding
season. The eggs are smooth and glossy
and are sky blue or white in color.
Because all eggs laid by a single female
are the same color, the presence of an
odd-colored egg in a clutch may indicate
that another female has laid her egg in
the nest, a practice known as egg
dumping.
Eggs can remain un-incubated for awhile
and still be viable; however, once
incubation begins, it must be continuous.
Females generally begin to incubate the
day the last egg is laid. The incubation
period is 12 to 14 days but can be longer
in the case of extreme or prolonged cold
weather.
Nestlings hatch within one or two days of
each other, and the female broods the
nestlings for a few days. Both adults
tend the young. The nestlings begin to
thermoregulate, or regulate their own
body temperatures, when they are about
six days old, and females then decrease
the amount of time they spend brooding.
Nevertheless, the females may continue to
brood at night during cold weather. The
young leave the nest after 16 to 22 days,
but they remain dependent upon their
parents for food and protection for three
to four weeks.
Eastern Bluebirds raise two broods per
season. Pairs may build their second
nests on top of the first nest, or they
may nest in an entirely new site. The
male continues to tend the fledged young
while the female begins to re-nest. Young
from the first brood will reportedly help
raise siblings from the second brood.
Families flock together until fall, when
they merge with other family flocks.
Some, but not all, bluebirds residing in
the northern portions of the range
migrate to southern latitudes, but those
residing in southern latitudes tend to be
residential. Adults tend to return to the
same breeding territory year after year,
but only a small percentage (three to
five percent) of young birds return to
their natal area to breed.
|
Mountain
Bluebird
Unlike other bluebird species, male
Mountain Bluebirds have no chestnut red
on their bodies. The head, back, wings,
and tail are a bright sky blue. Males are
light blue from the chin to the belly,
and grayish-white on the belly and
undertail coverts.
Females have brownish gray upperparts.
The wings, rump, and tail are a pale or
light blue. Females sometimes have a pale
reddish throat and breast, but more
commonly, the throat and breast are gray
brown.
Juveniles look like adult females, but
they are darker and less colorful. Their
breasts and sides are streaked with
brown.
Mountain Bluebirds are found in the
western parts of Canada and the United
States. They are found at elevations
above 5,000 feet, and they nest in open
areas such as meadows, hayfields, grain
fields, savannas, prairies, clear cuts,
and the edges of coniferous and deciduous
forests.
Mountain Bluebird
Range Map
Mountain
Bluebirds feed on a variety of insects,
including beetles, weevils, ants, wasps,
cicadas, flies, grasshoppers, katydids,
and crickets. Unlike their eastern or
western relatives, Mountain Bluebirds
rarely eat seeds or berries. Mountain
Bluebirds also differ from other
bluebirds in that they often hover while
foraging.
Males return to the breeding grounds
before the females and establish
territories. This happens in late March
in the south but not until early April in
the north. Females arrive several days to
a few weeks later. Initially, pairs
aggressively defend a large area around
their nest site, but as the breeding
season progresses, the size of the
defended area decreases and becomes more
localized around the nest. Mountain
Bluebirds defend territories against
others of their own species, or
conspecifics, as well as against other
bluebird species in areas where their
breeding ranges overlap.
Mountain Bluebirds are basically
monogamous. But, as with other bluebirds,
both males and females sneak copulations
with individuals that are not their
mates. For this reason, males guard their
mates, from the time a pair forms until
the female lays her eggs. Pairs typically
stay together throughout the season;
however, individuals that have had an
unsuccessful first nesting attempt may
find a new mate for the rest of the
breeding season. Some pairs mate for more
than one breeding season. As in many
species, the fact that many pairs mate
with each other year after year probably
reflects a male and female fidelity to a
particular breeding site rather than to
one another.
Mountain Bluebirds are solitary nesters,
but pairs may nest in close proximity to
others, depending on nest site
availability. The beginning of the
breeding season varies with latitude;
birds in the southern portion of the
range begin in early April, birds in
northern latitudes begin in late May. The
female chooses a nest site, which can be
any natural cavity, abandoned woodpecker
hole, cliff crevice, or nest box. Like
other bluebirds, Mountain Bluebirds
compete with House Sparrows and European
Starlings for nest sites.
Only the female builds the nest, and it
takes her anywhere from a few days to
over a week to complete. Working most
diligently in the morning, she constructs
the nest of grass, weed stems, pine
needles, twigs, rootlets, bark, and,
sometimes, wool, hair, or feathers. Males
are very attentive to their females
during the nest-building period and spend
most of their energy guarding their
mates. Occasionally, they carry nest
material to the cavity, but they are not
known to actually weave it into the nest.
The first eggs are laid between late
April and early May. Females lay one egg
per day until the clutch is complete. The
average clutch size is five to six eggs,
but there can be as few as four or as
many as eight. The eggs are smooth,
glossy, unmarked, and are pale blue,
bluish-white, or, rarely, white. Because
all eggs laid by a female are the same
color, any odd-colored eggs in a clutch
indicates that another female has laid an
egg in that nest, a behavior known as egg
dumping.
While some sources report that both sexes
incubate, incubation is mainly done by
the female. Incubation begins when the
next-to-last or the last egg is laid and
lasts 13 to 14 days. Males often feed
their mates during this period, and they
continue to do so after the eggs hatch.
The female broods the nestlings for about
a week after they hatch. The male does
most of the feeding during that time.
When the female ceases her daytime
brooding and begins to brood only at
night, both sexes start feeding the young
equally. The nestlings fledge after 17 to
22 days. Initially, they are sedentary
and depend heavily upon their parents for
food and protection; however, as they
mature, they begin to follow the parents
around and actively solicit feedings. The
male continues to care for the fledged
young when the female begins to re-nest.
After three to four weeks, the young are
independent.
If a nesting attempt fails, Mountain
Bluebirds will renest. They usually raise
two broods in a breeding season. The
fledged young may assist their parents in
raising the next brood, but this behavior
is considered rare.
Mountain Bluebirds reuse old nest sites
both within a breeding season and in
successive breeding seasons. Pairs that
successfully raise a brood in a nest box
may become faithful to that particular
type of nest box. First-year breeding
birds tend to nest in boxes identical to
their natal box.
Families form flocks in late summer and
merge with other family flocks as the
season progresses. Juveniles that fledged
early in the season and adults that bred
unsuccessfully during the summer also
join these flocks. It has not been
determined whether the birds stay
together in these flocks throughout
migration or on their wintering grounds.
Mountain Bluebirds are the most migratory
of the three bluebird species. Birds in
the northern portion of the range begin
to migrate sooner than those living in
the southern portion. Mountain Bluebirds
migrate to the southern United States and
central Mexico, where they inhabit open
lowlands, deserts, plains, and
grasslands.
|
Western
Bluebird
Western Bluebirds are similar in
appearance to Eastern Bluebirds. The
western species can be distinguished from
its eastern relative by the sky blue
color of the chin, throat, wings, and
tail. Western Bluebirds also have
chestnut-red breasts, flanks, and
shoulders. In some birds, the back is
partially or entirely blue. The belly and
undertail coverts are blue gray.
Female Western Bluebirds are less
colorful than males. They have a brownish
gray head and back, light blue wings and
tail, and grayish white throat, belly,
and undertail coverts. The breast is a
pale rust. The females also have a dull
white eye ring.
Western Bluebirds can be found in the
Southwest and all along the West Coast of
the United States. This species is
generally residential but moves to lower
elevations for the winter months. Western
Bluebirds breed in open habitats with
scattered trees, such as farmland,
orchards, and the edges of open
coniferous and deciduous forests.
Western Bluebird
Range Map
Western
Bluebirds feast on a variety of
invertebrates, including caterpillars,
grasshoppers, beetles, ants, and snails.
In winter, their diet includes wild
berries.
The breeding biology of the Western
Bluebird is similar to that of the
Eastern Bluebird. Their breeding season
can begin anytime from early April to
early May. Females build their nests in
the natural cavities of snags or rotting
trees, in woodpecker holes, or in nest
boxes. These nests can be anywhere from 4
to 40 feet above the ground. The nest is
a loose collection of grasses, weed
stems, and, sometimes, hair and feathers.
Females usually lay four to six eggs in a
clutch, but clutches can range from three
to eight eggs. The unmarked eggs are pale
blue, bluish-white, or white in color.
Only the female incubates the eggs, for a
period of 13 to 14 days.
Both adults tend the young, feeding them
mostly soft-bodied insects. After 19 to
22 days, the young fledge, but they don't
reach full independence for three to four
weeks. The male may continue to care for
the young by himself while the female
begins to renest.
This species is believed to raise two
broods per breeding season.
Like Eastern Bluebirds, some populations
of Western Bluebirds migrate to southern
latitudes for the winter months, while
other populations are residential.
Nevertheless, even residential
individuals move to lower elevations in
winter.
|
Monitoring
Bluebird Houses
It is very important that bluebird houses
be actively monitored (checked) at least
once a week. Doing so increases the
chances of success for bluebirds using
the bluebird house and also is valuable
for determining population trends. A
bluebird house that is not monitored may
be more harmful than helpful to
bluebirds. All bluebird houses should be
built so that they can be opened either
from the side, front, or top.
Monitoring bluebird house will alert you
to problems the birds may be having with
blowfly parasitism. Uncontrolled, the
larvae of this species may weaken or
possibly even kill the nestling
bluebirds. If you identify larvae in the
nest, you should replace all the nest
material with dried lawn clippings in a
shape similar to that of the original
nest. This will increase the chance that
the chicks will survive. Many bluebird
enthusiasts replace all nests holding
chicks periodically even before the
blowfly larvae are visible. You should
also replace any nest with young birds
that has been saturated following
rainfall. This is especially important
during cold periods.
Being aware of what species is using the
bluebird house is also beneficial.
Bluebird societies would like you to
monitor and report all species using your
bluebird houses, not just bluebirds.
Species such as bluebirds, tree swallows,
house wrens, and chickadees are all
native and beneficial birds. Mail survey
forms submitted at the end of the nesting
season allows the identification of
population trends in each species.
House (English) sparrows and European
starlings are non-native species
introduced from Europe and their
aggressive seizure of cavity nest sites
is the main reason for the rarity of
bluebirds today. Starlings nest in many
of the natural nest sites but can be
excluded from bluebird houses by only
using 1 1/2 or 1 9/16 inch entrance
holes. House sparrows can readily enter
bluebird houses and frequently kill
bluebirds, destroy their eggs, or drive
them from their nests. At no time should
they be allowed to successfully nest in
bluebird houses. Doing so will increase
the house sparrow population and further
reduce the number of the bluebirds.
After any nesting effort has ended,
either due to nest failure or successful
fledging of the young, the nest should be
removed from the bluebird house. If a
bluebird nest was successful, re-nesting
in the same bluebird house will be
encouraged if the first nest is removed.
This should be done when all chicks have
left the nest.
WHAT TO MONITOR
Whenever you monitor a bluebird house you
should determine what species is using it
by examining the nesting material and
eggs. You should record the date, and the
number of eggs or young that you have
observed. Knowing when the eggs where
laid will help you determine if they are
infertile, or when they should hatch and
when the young would be expected to leave
the nest. In the case of bluebirds, the
eggs are laid one each day until the
entire clutch is complete. Incubation
will then begin and will last
approximately 13-14 days. After hatching
the chicks will remain in the nest for
17-18 days. Your monitoring should be
limited to viewing from a distance after
the 13th day or the chicks might fly from
the box prematurely.
HOW TO MONITOR
Nest monitoring should only be done
during calm, mild, and dry weather
conditions to reduce the chance of
chilling the chicks or eggs. Open the
bluebird house being careful not to allow
the eggs to fall out or chicks to jump
out. Songbirds have a very poor sense of
smell and will not abandon the nest due
to your handling the nest, eggs, or
chicks. If chicks are in the nest, look
under the nest for signs of blowfly
larvae. The chicks themselves should be
examined for small scars, particularly
under the wings which indicates blowfly
parasitism. Sometimes you may observe the
larvae attached to the chick. These are
easily removed by hand. Complete the
monitoring as quickly as possible to
minimize disturbance. When handling the
chicks or removing them from the nest
they should be placed in something that
will protect them from the sun or wind
while preventing their escape. Avoid
disposing used nest material near the
nest site or predators may be attracted
to the site. Always be certain to close
the bluebird house door securely before
leaving. Record what you observed.
HOW TO IDENTIFY NESTS AND EGGS
BY SPECIES
Bluebird: The 1-4 in. tall nest is built
with fine grasses or pine needles with a
fairly deep nest cup. Eggs (4-6) are
powder blue or occasionally white.
Tree swallow: Their nest is also made of
grasses but they may use somewhat coarser
fibers than a bluebird. The nest
generally has a flatter cup than the
bluebird's and is usually lined with
feathers or occasionally scraps of paper.
Eggs (5-7) are white and smaller than
those of a bluebird.
House wren: Wrens fill a bluebird house
with sticks and line the deep nest cup
with fine plant fibers or feathers.
"Dummy nests" without the nest
cup are often built in all other cavities
within the male wren's territory to
reduce competition for resources. The
eggs (6-8) are tan, speckled with brown
and quite small.
Black-capped chickadee: Chickadees build
a nest of moss and plant down with the
nest cup lined with hair. They lay 5-8
white eggs covered with brown speckles.
Eggs are often covered with moss when the
female leaves the box.
House sparrow: House sparrows build a
tall nest of coarse grasses, often with
pieces of scrap paper, cellophane, or
other garbage. The nest forms a canopy
with a tunnel-like entrance to the 5-7
cream-colored eggs with brown markings. |
Bluebird
House Predator Control
Putting up a bluebird house is a
responsibility that should not be taken
lightly. When you put up a bluebird
house, a commitment is made to provide as
safe as possible place for the bluebirds
to raise their young. If this commitment
is taken seriously, both you and the
bluebirds will be rewarded.
Bluebirding is a great hands-on project
but, from time to time, problems may
arise on your trail. Common problems on a
bluebird trail include the weather, house
sparrows, house wrens, and predators such
as raccoons. We cannot control the
weather, and sparrows and wrens may prove
to be difficult, but losses due to
raccoons can and should be controlled.
Proper bluebird house placement can be a
factor in raccoon predation. Bluebird
houses placed in pastureland are less
likely to attract raccoons than houses
placed near a wooded area with a stream,
pond, or lake nearby.
There are two definite lines of defense
against raccoons. The best way is to keep
the raccoon off the house. The second is
to prevent the raccoon from reaching into
the house once it gets in a position to
try.
There are many ways to predator-proof a
bluebird house. Here are some methods
used by experienced bluebirders.
MOUNTING SYSTEMS
The easiest way to mount a bluebird house
would be to nail it to a wooden fence
post or to a tree. Although this may work
well in certain parts of North America
where there are few raccoons, it is
generally not recommended. Raccoons climb
trees and walk fence lines where they may
eventually find your bluebird house.
Taking the time to properly mount your
bluebird houses, may take care of your
raccoon problems.
A smooth clean pipe is the best mounting
system to use. A 10 foot piece of 3/4
inch EMT electrical conduit pipe can be
purchased for a reasonable price. It will
then need to be cut down to a length of
approximately 8 feet, to place 2 feet of
pipe in the ground and 6 feet of pipe
above. The electrical conduit is zinc
plated and will keep its slick surface
for many years. Other heavy round pipe
will also work well. Scrap pipe found at
construction sites and salvage yards can
also be used. An excellent source of pipe
is from overhead garage door companies.
In their scrap piles from discarded doors
you will find either an 8 foot or 16 foot
piece of 1 inch pipe.
Most businesses will be glad to give them
to you. If they are rusty, they should be
sanded smooth. Flattening the bottom of
the pipe with a heavy hammer will help
stabilize the pipe and keep it from
turning. A fence post driver is
recommended over a heavy hammer for
putting the pipe in the ground. There are
several easy ways to mount a bluebird
house to the pole:
Pre-drill two 5/16 inch holes through
both the conduit or pipe and the back of
the bluebird house. Use 1/4 inch bolts
for anchoring the bluebird house to the
pole. The drilling can be done before
placement in the field.
OR
Wrap two pieces of pipe strap around the
pole and screw into the back of the
bluebird house on either side of the
pole. Secure another small piece of pipe
strap to the back top and bend it down
into the pole to keep the bluebird house
from turning.
OR
Place two electrical conduit hangers
around the pole and screw into the
bluebird house.
A method that works well for mounting
lightweight bluebird houses (i.e., PVC
boxes) is the use of a 5 foot piece of
1/2 inch electrical conduit slipped over
a 5 foot piece of rebar driven
approximately 2 feet into the ground. A
conduit connector (with a longer bottom
screw) at the base is used to keep the
conduit from turning.
A bluebird house may also be mounted on
PVC pipe. Some 2 inch PVC pipe will slip
over a metal T-post, which makes a secure
system when your box is located in a
pasture with cattle. Mount your bluebird
house high enough on the PVC so that the
cattle will not have any sharp corners to
rub against.
Down spouts can also be used. A 10 foot
length of down spout can be cut into
three 3 foot 4 inch pieces, which is
attached to the back of the bluebird
house. This can then be slipped over a
metal T-post.
By using the above methods, raccoon
predation will be greatly minimized. For
added protection, substances can be
applied to the pole. Rub the pole down
will steel wool and apply a layer of
Carnauba car wax or silicone spray.
Another effective method is to apply a
coating of high quality automotive grease
to the pole. A mixture of 5 pounds of
grease and one quart of turpentine will
keep the grease soft throughout the
season. Grease will eventually attract
dirt and harden which may make it easier
for a raccoon to climb the pole. The
grease may have to be removed and
reapplied if this happens. This is extra
work, but it is the most effective way to
keep raccoons off the pole.
POLE
GUARDS
Some bluebirders prefer using a guard on
the pole or post their bluebird house is
mounted on.
Similar
preventative methods apply to snakes and
cats. Snakes can climb smooth poles, even
greased ones. Snakes are more of a common
problem in the southern states but some
snake problems may occur all across North
America. The stove pipe and cone guards
are effective for snake control. Also
effective is a 24 inch piece of hardware
cloth placed directly under the bluebird
house.
Both domestic and feral cats pose a
threat to bluebirds. The hanging guards
mentioned may detour a cat but they may
jump as high as 6 feet. If cats are in
your area, place your bluebird house as
high as possible on a smooth pole.
Please do not let the possibility of
predation problems discourage you from
putting up a bluebird house. Mounting
your bluebird house on a smooth round
pipe will greatly reduce the chance of a
loss to a predator. Any other
preventative measures taken will provide
added protection. |
House
Sparrow Control
House Sparrows
House Sparrows are the most abundant
songbirds in North America and the most
widely distributed birds on the planet.
House Sparrows are not actually sparrows,
but are Old World Weaver Finches, a
family of birds noted for their ingenious
nest-building abilities.
History
House Sparrows were introduced into North
America from England in the 1850s on the
mistaken premise that they would help
reduce crop insect pests. At first, the
new immigrants welcomed this little bird
of their homeland. Within 25 years,
however, they realized the seriousness of
their mistake: the House Sparrow
population had increased at an explosive
and alarming rate, and the birds were
causing extensive damage to crops and
fruit trees. They were also taking over
the nesting sites of native
cavity-nesting birds.
Life & Habits
The breeding season for House Sparrows
begins early in the spring or even in
midwinter, and each pair may produce up
to four broods a season. The male House
Sparrow's bond with his nest site is
stronger than his bond with a mate - he
may lose a mate, but he won't give up his
nest site. Although they usually prefer
to nest in a cavity, House Sparrows will
settle for any nook or cranny they can
find. They will also occasionally nest in
coniferous trees and in the nests of
Cliff Swallows and Northern Orioles.
The male constructs a bulky, dome-shaped
nest of coarse grasses, weeds, hair, and
feathers. The female lays three to five
white/brown speckled eggs and incubates
for 11-14 days. The young sparrows fledge
after 14-16 days. They are not migratory,
but flocks of birds move about within a
1.5-2mi. area. House Sparrows are
primarily seed-eaters, although they eat
some insects during the summer. They will
also dine on garbage. Feedlots and
farmsteads are particularly attractive to
sparrows as they provide an abundant
source of food, as well as shelter and
plenty of nesting sites.
Sparrow Control on a Bluebird
Trail
Control of sparrows on a bluebird trail
can be either PASSIVE (taking
preventative measure when placing the
bluebird house to deter sparrow use) or
AGGRESSIVE (taking measures after the
bluebird house is in place and sparrows
are using it).
PASSIVE CONTROL
1. Bluebird House Location
Bluebird house location is the most
crucial factor in controlling sparrows on
a bluebird trail. The House Sparrow's
Latin name, Passer domesticus,
aptly describes its preferred nesting
habits - around houses. Avoid placing
bluebird houses near farmsteads,
feedlots, barns, old out-buildings, etc.
Bluebird houses placed in or around
villages, towns or cities will likely be
claimed by House Sparrows. If sparrows do
take up residence, one option is to
relocate the bluebird house to a site
farther away from human occupation.
Sparrows may avoid a nesting site if the
bluebird house is placed too low to the
ground (3 to 5 feet). However, since
bluebird houses placed this low run the
risk of being predated by raccoons, cats,
or other climbing predators this is a
feasible option where there are no
climbing predators.
2. Plugging the Entrance Hole
Plugging the entrance hole of a bluebird
house taken over by sparrows will prevent
the male from using that specific
bluebird house, and might even encourage
him to move elsewhere. Some bluebird
trail operators plug the entrance hole at
the end of the nesting season and leave
it plugged until the bluebirds arrive in
the spring. This will prevent sparrows
from roosting in the bluebird house
during the winter, and then staking an
early claim in the spring.
3.
Use a Sparrow-resistant
Bluebird House
According to research at the
University of Kentucky, bluebirds prefer
a slot entrance to the standard circular
hole -- sparrows prefer the opposite. In
addition, sparrows don't like a shallow
box and bluebirds don't seem to mind.
This box is only 5" deep but if
sparrows still continue to be a problem,
a wooden insert is included to reduce the
depth even more. Sparrows rarely use the
3-1/2" depth, but bluebirds will
still occupy it.
4. Eliminating Feeding Areas,
Roosting & Nesting Sites
Problems on a bluebird house trail can be
reduced if the overall, local House
Sparrow population can be reduced. This
can be achieved by taking control
measures at bird feeding stations (use of
sparrow-proof feeders; avoiding cheap,
mixed bird seed that contains a high
percentage of filler grains, such as
milo, millet or cracked corn; or use of
monofilament line around seed feeders),
as well as sealing up all potential
winter roosting and summer nesting sites.
AGGRESSIVE CONTROL
1. Regular Monitoring
Regular bluebird house monitoring is the
most effective way to control House
Sparrows. If sparrow nests are regularly
removed, no young will fledge from the
bluebird house. However, the male will
tenaciously defend his bluebird house,
and will usually keep rebuilding his
nest. He will also drive off any other
bird that might express an interest in
the bluebird house. Therefore, it is
important to eliminate the male. This is
usually accomplished using an in-box
trap.
2. In-box Trapping
Two traps that work well are the basic
Huber-style and the Gilbertson universal
trap.
Do not set a in-box trap until a sparrow
has laid claim to that bluebird house.
Once he has claimed it, he will not allow
any other species inside. The male
sparrow will be more likely to enter the
bluebird house if a small amount of
nesting material is left in the bottom or
tucked in the entrance hole. However, be
careful that the nesting material does
not interfere with the trap. The trap
must be checked at least every two hours
because there is the remote possibility
that a bluebird or other native
cavity-nester may have entered the
bluebird house.
To remove a trapped House Sparrow from a
bluebird house, place a clear garbage bag
over the entire box and remove the trap
with the bag still over the bluebird
house. Once the trap is removed, the
sparrow will fly into the bag. This is a
much easier method than trying to reach
into the bluebird house and catch the
sparrow by hand.
Since House Sparrows are classified as
pests and are not protected by federal
law, they should be quickly and humanely
dispatched as soon as they are captured.
Do not consider relocating the bird, as
this just relocates the problem. The dead
sparrows can be frozen and given to
raptor recovery centers to feed their
injured raptors.
3. Multi-bird Trapping
There are several ways to trap a large
number of birds
A. Ground Traps: These
traps are easy to construct, and can hold
a large number of birds. Approximately 10
birds should be kept in the cage trap at
all times to act as decoys. These decoys
can be attracted into the trap by baiting
them with white feathers, grain, bread
scraps, white proso millet, mixed bird
seed or cracked corn in it. A small
mirror placed in the bait compartment of
the trap helps to lure the sparrow in.
Food, water, and shelter must be provided
at all times. Since sparrows are
gregarious, the success of cage traps
depends on the birds being attracted to
the food and to each other. For this
reason, the trap works least effectively
in areas with a high initial population.
Used continuously once the population is
under control, its effectiveness, though
varied throughout the course of the year,
is usually consistent. These traps are
especially effective during the winter,
and when juvenile birds are abundant in
mid summer.
B. Cage Traps:
Basically, these consist of nest boxes
atop a wire cage. The nest box has as
hinged floor, which tips the bird down
into the cage below.
C. Drop traps, which
simply drop down over a flock of feeding
sparrows, can also be used once the
sparrows are coming into an area
regularly to feed.
D. The Cedar Valley Live Trap:
This is a repeatable trap that has a
small "catcher" area that opens
through a one-way trap door to a large
holding pen. This permits the capture of
a large number of birds.
IMPORTANT: All
multi-bird traps must be checked daily
to ensure that the trapped sparrows have
adequate food, water, and shelter, and in
case a native sparrow or other songbird
becomes trapped. Native birds should be released
immediately. The male House
Sparrow is very easy to identify, but the
females are quite similar to some species
of native sparrows. Check a bird book if
necessary.
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